Broken front output – Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board

Broken front output – Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board
I called Brent at TT the other day and got the low down on this shimming thing.
I had to call him anyways to order an output shaft, because mine was broke
Anyway, Brent told me that shiming the front output shaft does NOT do anything to help the breaking issue. What is breaking the shafts is driveline yokes binding on full droop of the front axle. Once the yokes bind the driveline is pulling down on the output shaft. Thats what is breaking the tip of the shaft off.
What the shimming does help, is the pop out complaint people are talking about. The early model t-cases have a thiner clutching gear on the output shaft. So shimming the shaft would get the output shaft closer the the main shaft and would engage the collar more.

I just bought a new shaft from Brent, in the picture you can really see the differance in the clutching gear teeth.
So with the new shaft no shimming would be needed.


Heres all the pieces (minus the shifter) in the front section of the t-case.
Completing this repair is easy to do without pulling the whole t-case.


I installed the bearing into the case, then the snap ring, then the seal. I then flipped the case over a drove the new shaft through the bearing.


in this picture you can see where the shim would go if you were going to use a shim. I didnt use a shim.


This is my take on this repair hope it helps.

I paid $98 for the new shaft. Bought from TT.
Suzuki part #29151-80051

B7000 Specifications

Kubota compact tractor B7000

Engine Diesel Kubota Z650 – 2 cyl. – 640 cc
Output 14 HP (9.5 KW) at 3000 rpm
PTO Output 11.5 hp
Wheel tread front (mm) 765
Wheel tread rear (mm) 740 – 840
Wheel base (mm) 1230
Min. ground clearance (mm) 240
Transmission Mechanical Speeds 6 FWD – 2 REV
Max. speeds (Km/h) 13
Rotation PTO Clockwise
PTO Speed 540 – 860 – 1000 rpm
PTO Diam. 1″3/8 – 6 splines
Tyre-agri Front 5.00 – 12
Tyre-agri Rear 8 – 16
Dimensions : L*W*H (cm) 199*90*116
Weight (Kg) 475

Painting a Samurai

How bad is Maaco?
For a sammy that gets used maaco is the way to go, if its a DD that NEVER sees a trail….i wouldnt go there. I work for a bodyshop and maaco is one of the lower end shops to go to. I would go with a single stage if i were you, basecoat/clearcoat will look like crap after your first wheeling trip if your goin thru alot of bushes and shrubs. The good thing about single stage is that the clearcoat is built in(kinda like a spray can) if you get some minor scratches from trees and bushes, you can buff it out and it will look like brand new. (unless the scratches are to the metal)

You would actually be suprised how many NEW cars are painted with single stage. A good friend of mine (auto painter for 30 years) told me that if its a solid color go single stage, if it has some kind of metallic use basecoat/clearcoat.

If you need any more help let me know…..i know alot about the industry.

Clamp-on bucket receiver hitch – Clamp-on bucket receiver hitch
Here is another of the latest creations from the shop of MadReferee. This was made for another TBN’er.

This a clamp-on bucket receiver hitch. The actual base is 18″ long with 10″ extending under the bucket. The nice thing about this design is that it fits over a bucket toothbar frame so you do not have to remove the toothbar to use the forks.

The base are made from 3″ x 1.5″ x 3/16″ bar channel and the top plate from 3″ x 3/8″ flat bar.

This project is easy enough so that a beginner at welding can make it with no problems.

I will make available a materials cut list and design sheet in a week or so for those who may want to build it yourself.

The Thumb

The Thumb
Have you ever tried to pick up things without using your thumb? It’s almost impossible! That is why you should have “The Thumb” on your loader bucket. It will allow you to move hard to handle materials easier. It will work on many different buckets – skidsteer or tractor. The thumb is a real time saver. It works great for picking up just about anything – logs, brush, roots, rocks; and is great for demolition too.

The Thumb is 18″ wide and constructed from 3/8″ plate steel and is reinforced with 2 or 3 – 2″ square 1/4″ wall tube. The points are reinforced with 1/4″ triangular quests. The base is 1″ x 3″ solid steel so it won’t twist. It is all mig welded in a jig and they are built tough for reliability and long life. The new agricultural tie-rod cylinder is rated for 2500 psi. with 2″ bore x 6″ stroke with 3/8″ port. Hoses are not supplied.

The Thumb is pre drilled can be bolted or welded to the flat spot on top of your bucket. Some buckets require reinforcing on the top.

Measure from the cutting edge to the top of the bucket to determine the correct size. 28″ is the standard length but other sizes are available.

The new color is black powder coated.

If you have questions you can call 618 532 4631 M-F 8:00-4:00 Central time or 618 262 2917 cell.

Grapple by Dehner

Grapple by Dehner
This is a super strong reinforced grappling arm. The base has
six mounting holes that are ½” and is made of 3”x3”x3/8” by
29” wide angle. Why angle? Well, with the way the tabs are
attached to the angle piece the whole mounting plate is by far
more superior to just having a flat bar that the tabs are welded
to. The flat bars are prone to bending and twisting more easily.
The sides of the arm are made of 3/8” solid plate. The sides
are held in place by three square tubes, the middle tube is a
super strong over sized 2 ½ x ¼ “ With support tab. The arm
is 20 3/4″ wide for grabbing more!!! At the end of the “points”
there are two huge supporting triangles to prevent the points
from bending. These triangles are a must because if you have
ever clamped on to something and turned the skid steer, or
moved something by turning into it with the skid steer YOU
WILL BEND SOMETHING!!! But, not with these supports in
there!!! The pins that hold the arm onto the mounting plate are
1 inch. The two tabs that hold the cylinder on are made of
solid ¾ “ plate with 1’ holes. I say solid because some people
will just weld two 3/8″ plates together and call it good….. Not
here! There is a large steel plate located from the back of the
grabbing arm going to the main middle tube (see pictures
below) and it is welded on all sides. Its job is to protect the
cylinder when the cylinder is in all positions. You can bolt or
weld this arm on your bucket with no problem. You could even
drill holes in the back of the mounting plate to mount it on a
pallet fork attachment. Some adapting may be required. Also
all pins are 1″. All pins are quick disconnecting. So that if you
wish not to have the arm on your bucket, just pull three pins
and set the arm off to the side, while the mounting plate is still
attached to the bucket.

The Welds:
All of the welds are Mig. Welded at 200 AMPS. All welds are
70,000-77,000 tensile strength or higher! This strength is
obtained is by the type of wire that is used. The arm and the
base plate are both tacked together in a jig/form.

The Cylinder:
Is a brand new LOIN hydraulics Cylinder. It is a 2500 psi rated
continuous working pressure cylinder and is designed to take
shock loads of up to 5000psi. With a 2in. bore and a 6” stroke
you can not go wrong!! It has two 3/8” ports!! It has 7854 lbs of
down pressure under full psi, and fully extended. The Hoses
are not included!!

Opening and closing:
This is made to fit any type of bucket, up to 25″ high. But, it will
fit any thing you put it on. The arm will open about 21″ higher
than what you mount it on. So, Example= lets say your bucket
is 20” high then the arm will open 20″ 21″= 41″ High!!!!
We have two different sizes, a 28″ and a 32”grapple. Measure
from your cutting edge to your top lip on your bucket and if it is
28″ or 32” we have your grapple!! They are both the same
price, just note witch size you need in the comment box when

The pics show a white unit. But this is just a white primer so
that the arm would show up better in the pics, so you could see
all of the details. The arm you will receive will be in an oil
based gloss black.

You will notice the “arm” hangs over about 4 inches. That is
because it has a 32” grapple arm mounted on a 28” bucket. If
the 28″ grapple was mounted on the bucket the teeth would
come done on the cutting edge. You measure from the cutting
edge straight up to the lip of the bucket. Enjoy the pics!

B6100 oil overflow – B6100 oil overflow flowing
I bought a B6200D (1985) w/B1640 FEL & 3 PH that had not been maintained very well. After about 10 hrs use, the main driven shaft seal in the hydraulic pump failed and the hydra oil was sucked out of the transmission and forced into the crankcase which caused the crankcase to overflow & oil came out of the dipstick hole.The cure was to rebuild the pump by replacing all of the seals in the pump. Parts are available. This pump is difficult to remove/replace as a unit because of the mounting location. The 6 neoprene O rings & 1 mainshaft seal in the pump were all replaced. The internal bushings are precision fitted & can be difficult to remove & replace. Care must be taken. A new pump is about $300.00. There are .pdf files available of the parts & assy’s. After repairing or replacing the pump, be sure that the engine oil & filter are changed and the transmission is refilled with UDF oil before running the engine. The 3 PH also uses the tranny oil. The oil filter for the tranny / hyraulic pump / 3 PH is in the tranny. See the .pdf files.

Rebuilding B7000 Steering Gear

Steering wheel shaft bearings: (2) NSK VBT17Z-2

Steering wheel shaft seal : CR 7803 (19mm X 32mm X 8mm)

Pitman shaft seal: CR 10168 (26mm X 38mm X 8mm)

The parts from a B6100 or B7100 do not fit the B7000. Those parts are too small.

The top steering wheel shaft bearing had to be disassembled and reassembled in place on the shaft. The bearing ball separator would not fit over the shaft.