Tire Patch Question! Please help!!!

Tire Patch Question! Please help!!!

Re: Tire Patch Question! Please help!!!
« Reply #11 on: Yesterday at 04:14:43 PM »
Once you find a place that does the combo plug (they are the best) ask if you can watch the guy install it.
1) Make sure there is rubber ground away form the area around the hole slightly larger than the patch plug hes going to install and the hole where the nail went through should be reamed to fit the plug diameter.(SHOULD be ground from previous installations).

2) Now it shoud be cleaned with a solvent designed specifically for cleaning rubber. Make sure absolutely no shavings of rubber are left in the ground area.

3) Now he should be applying a vulcanizing glue. Here’s the part that most guys screw up cause they don’t wanna wait. The THIN layer of glue should be totally dry before he pulls the plug patch through. It only takes a few minutes to dry.

4) Next he should take a knurled wheel and run it from the center of the patch out to assure it is seated and all air has escaped from under it.

5) Now he should be putting thick gooey black patch sealer on top of the patched are to assure no cotaminates will get under the patch. It can work just fine without it but it is the recommended way to do it.

If all of these steps are not completed the patch has a much higher likely hood of failing like in your case.

Rubber Roof Repair

7. R Roof Coating Long
Posted by: “Jerry  Newberry” peskyfeller@earthlink.net peskyfeller
Date: Mon Sep 25, 2006 9:55 pm (PDT)

By no means should you use anything on your roof that has any
petroleum  product in it. Your roof is made of  EPDM rubber. It is a great
product  but it has some limits. You cannot use anything to clean or coat
roof  that contains any petroleum solvents. This included the coating Kool
Seal  sells for rubber roofs.

About 1 year ago I did a lot of research on this material and after  talking
with the manufacturers of Kool Seal and EPDM roofs I found that the  Kool
Seal has petroleum in it. What this will do is penetrate the EPDM  and
dissolve the adhesive. This will ruin the roof as it will allow the  rubber
to swell and bubble up badly.

I also found other so called “rubber roof coatings”. The only  one
recommended by ALPHA, the folks who make the EPDM material was the  Liquid
Roof and Liquid EPDM. You can read about them both on this page:
_http://www.liquid-roof.com/_ (http://www.liquid-roof.com/)   Right  now the
best price for the product is
here: _http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-roofs/38-1416.htm_
(http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-roofs/38-1416.htm)   . You will
need the 4 gallon kit. Order a couple of tubes of white Dicor  caulk while
you are at it.You also need a squeegee. Lowe’s sells a 20 or 24  inch one
that works well. Here is the information I posted after doing my  roof:

It should be noted that this is EPDM! It is not a paint or coating. When
use this stuff you are applying another coat of EPDM rubber to the roof.  It
will seal small cracks but anything larger than 1/8 inch should be  caulked
with Dicor.  The fact that this is EPDM makes it safe to use. It  has no
additives that can harm the roof like the “Kool Seal” and other so  called
rubber roof coatings. The Liquid Roof bonds to the existing EPDM and  will
not peel off like some of the other stuff. There is no primer  needed.

I cleaned the roof with a mixture of water and Clorox and scrubbed it with
stiff bristle brush. That removed the loose dried out surface. When  doing
that I had to make sure to keep the sides rinsed off.
If you have  wax on the sides it may cause it to streak. I have no wax on
mine and it  didn’t hurt the clearcoat any.

You must remove any loose adhesive or putty. I found a lot of putty on  the
edges where the membrane went under the side trim/gutters.

I did not use the rear ladder to get on the roof. I used a regular  ladder
and stood it against the rolled up awning. It was safer going up and  down.
also used an 8 foot step ladder when working around the edges.

After mixing the EPDM according to the instructions I took the 4 gallon
up to the roof along with a smaller pail. I took some of the EPDM and a  4
inch brush and went all the way around the edges of the roof. If found  it
extremely hard to do this area as this stuff is like thick cake frosting
can get pretty messy. I had to forget some of the rules for painting  and
remember this is not paint!

The EPDM has a pot life of five hours so you have time to get it right.  Any
spillage comes off easily with a rag soaked with mineral spirits. NOTE:  Do
not let the mineral spirit rag touch any part of the membrane. Use it  only
for the sides below the membrane to get EPDM off the sidewalls should  you
have a drip…and you will!

After getting the round parts at the edge done I took the same paint  brush
and coated around the vents, ladder, antenna, dish and roof cap  connection
points. You really have to slap this stuff on because it is  thick!

I chose not to remove the AC covers on mine because it has been cool  here
and I knew I wouldn’t be able to walk on the roof for a few days.  Instead I
poured a little around the  air conditioners and used a large  squeegee from
Lowe’s to push the EPDM under the shrouds.

After doing that the rest was easy. I simply poured a line of EPDM, used
squeegee to spread it and rolled it in with a short napped roller. I had  a
foot extension handle on both the squeegee and the roller. I worked from
rear toward the ladder against the side. Then I did the same from the  front
(make sure the antenna and dish are up) and eventually coated the  entire
roof doing the last few feet from the ladder. I was getting worried  there
the end because I barely had enough to do the job.
They tell you  that the roof will puff up with a few blisters but not to
worry because they  will settle down as the EPDM sets up. I can say they
right. It looked  terrible on the radius and seemed to have sags but after
two days of curing  it tightened right up.

This stuff loves heat and must be used at temperatures above 70 degrees  and
it must be kept dry for a day to be safe.

I never expected it to turn out this good. It has been a week now  (actually
it has now been five months) and it
shines like wet rubber. The  temperature in the Bounder is much lower. I
that since we hope to head  for Arizona later this month. If you looked at
the pictures in my folder you  can see my roof was almost black before. Now
it is white!

Look at the pictures on the group site in my folder to see what it  looks
like. Just click on the group site: _http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bounder_
(http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bounder)   .
Sign in and go to Photos and look in Jerry Newberry’s Album

I must add that the pictures were taken the day after I put the coating  on.
Now the raised areas seen in the after shots are tight and smooth. We  spent
three weeks in the desert in June and the roof did a great job. We  also
found ourselves on some mountain roads during the nine week 8700 mile  trip
that were not made for trucks and RVs. Lots of small limbs brushed their
across the roof and a couple not so small. The only damage I had were  four
small punctures about 1/4 inch in diameter where a large limb bounced  over
the top. It took 30 seconds to repair the holes with a tube of dicor  caulk.

The first time I washed the new coating was last week. I used 1 cup  of
Clorox in about 2 gallops of water and the same SOFT bristle brush I use  on
the sides. It still looks new.

Good luck!

Jerry Newberry
2003 36S Workhorse
2004 Vue

Using set screw to hold front sprocket in time

Learned a couple of things though in using a set screw. The crank is way harder than the sprocket so to drill in the gap does not work. The drill bit followed the shaft and drilled the sprocket. If using a set screw drill it on the drill press with a 5/64 bit for a 1/4 inch set screw. Drill all the way thru and then clean up the inside with a file so it will go on the crank. Put the key in the crank, install the sprocket on the shaft. At this point install the crank bolt after checking to make sure the sprocket is against the key opposite the side that is worn out. When the bolt is tightened it will force the sprocket against the key though. Drill thru the crank into the threaded area where the crank bolt goes. Use a fine thread tap and thread thru the  sprocket and into the crank till the tap bottoms out against against the crank bolt and then back it out so you can remove the crank bolt. run the tap back in till it threads through into the threaded area. Just a note. The setback for the sprocket hole from the front should be no more than 5/16 as when the crank is turned with the tap in the hole it won’t clear. With the tap still engaged in the crank check to see if the key lines up with the slot in the sprocket (Hmmm if it don’t then we have   a problem). The allen screw should be 5/8 long so install it but don’t turn it into the threaded area only so far (do a visual) so it don’t interfere when you install the crank bolt. Install the crank bolt at this time securing the flywheel to allow the proper torq. You will notice at this time that you cannot turn the allen screw in to the crankbolt to secure it as the torq puts pressure on the screw. I was going to put in a second allen screw to secure the first one but don’t believe this is necessary. If the engine has A/C I suggest we use two set screws.
JD Taylor

What jets do ya’ll run in your weber?

What jets do ya’ll run in your weber?

Re: What jets do ya’ll run in your weber?
« Reply #2 on: Tuesday, January 17, 2006, 12:53:08 AM »
Don’t worry about the number of turns out on the mix screw, just focus on the driveability . If it has a “bog” off-idle then it sounds like the primary idle jet is too large . If it has a hesitation or flat spot , the idle jet needs to be larger . Or, the dumb thing is dirty . Jetting is dependent upon the engine the carb is mounted to , not a flat rate set of jets per engine size , it really depends upon levels of flow and compression . If you aren’t geared at least close no carb, efi or anything else short of a much bigger engine is going to do any good .

Just for reference :
Bog: lack of response/dull sound from engine upon acceleration
Hesitation/flat spot: balk or hiccup when applying throttle , engine actually stops running momentarily

Also, check the distributor , the vacuum and mechanical advance must work properly . If not , replace or repair it .

De-rusting a gun barrel

Volume 7, No 9 – September, 2002
Electrolytic Rust Removal

by Joe Scott – HMSC Member

Here I am derusting one end of a 170 year old gun barrel. I use a solution made from 1 cup of washing soda per 4-5 gallons of water. The negative wire from a 12 volt battery charger is attached to the work (cathode – black clamp) while the positive (anode- red clamp) wire is attached to a submerged copper plate. The anode’s surface area should approximately equal that of the work. Twice each day, remove and wash the work with clear water. Rust removal speed depends on the rust depth. Be patient, it may take several days to get down to the metal.

Editor’s note: As always, put on rubber gloves, wear eye protection, stand on an electrically insulating mat, dress in old clothes, avoid electrical shock by working with one hand in your pocket, and do it outdoors in a well ventilated area. Lastly, to avoid personal injury, have it done professionally.