7. R Roof Coating Long
Posted by: “JerryÂ Newberry” firstname.lastname@example.org peskyfeller
Date: Mon Sep 25, 2006 9:55 pm (PDT)
By no means should you use anything on your roof that has any
petroleumÂ product in it. Your roof is made ofÂ EPDM rubber. It is a great
productÂ but it has some limits. You cannot use anything to clean or coat
roofÂ that contains any petroleum solvents. This included the coating Kool
SealÂ sells for rubber roofs.
About 1 year ago I did a lot of research on this material and afterÂ talking
with the manufacturers of Kool Seal and EPDM roofs I found that theÂ Kool
Seal has petroleum in it. What this will do is penetrate the EPDMÂ and
dissolve the adhesive. This will ruin the roof as it will allow theÂ rubber
to swell and bubble up badly.
I also found other so called “rubber roof coatings”. The onlyÂ one
recommended by ALPHA, the folks who make the EPDM material was theÂ Liquid
Roof and Liquid EPDM. You can read about them both on this page:
_http://www.liquid-roof.com/_ (http://www.liquid-roof.com/)Â Â RightÂ now the
best price for the product is
(http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-roofs/38-1416.htm)Â Â . You will
need the 4 gallon kit. Order a couple of tubes of white DicorÂ caulk while
you are at it.You also need a squeegee. Lowe’s sells a 20 or 24Â inch one
that works well. Here is the information I posted after doing myÂ roof:
It should be noted that this is EPDM! It is not a paint or coating. When
use this stuff you are applying another coat of EPDM rubber to the roof.Â It
will seal small cracks but anything larger than 1/8 inch should beÂ caulked
with Dicor.Â The fact that this is EPDM makes it safe to use. ItÂ has no
additives that can harm the roof like the “Kool Seal” and other soÂ called
rubber roof coatings. The Liquid Roof bonds to the existing EPDM andÂ will
not peel off like some of the other stuff. There is no primerÂ needed.
I cleaned the roof with a mixture of water and Clorox and scrubbed it with
stiff bristle brush. That removed the loose dried out surface. WhenÂ doing
that I had to make sure to keep the sides rinsed off.
If you haveÂ wax on the sides it may cause it to streak. I have no wax on
mine and itÂ didn’t hurt the clearcoat any.
You must remove any loose adhesive or putty. I found a lot of putty onÂ the
edges where the membrane went under the side trim/gutters.
I did not use the rear ladder to get on the roof. I used a regularÂ ladder
and stood it against the rolled up awning. It was safer going up andÂ down.
also used an 8 foot step ladder when working around the edges.
After mixing the EPDM according to the instructions I took the 4 gallon
up to the roof along with a smaller pail. I took some of the EPDM and aÂ 4
inch brush and went all the way around the edges of the roof. If foundÂ it
extremely hard to do this area as this stuff is like thick cake frosting
can get pretty messy. I had to forget some of the rules for paintingÂ and
remember this is not paint!
The EPDM has a pot life of five hours so you have time to get it right.Â Any
spillage comes off easily with a rag soaked with mineral spirits. NOTE:Â Do
not let the mineral spirit rag touch any part of the membrane. Use itÂ only
for the sides below the membrane to get EPDM off the sidewalls shouldÂ you
have a drip…and you will!
After getting the round parts at the edge done I took the same paintÂ brush
and coated around the vents, ladder, antenna, dish and roof capÂ connection
points. You really have to slap this stuff on because it isÂ thick!
I chose not to remove the AC covers on mine because it has been coolÂ here
and I knew I wouldn’t be able to walk on the roof for a few days.Â Instead I
poured a little around theÂ air conditioners and used a largeÂ squeegee from
Lowe’s to push the EPDM under the shrouds.
After doing that the rest was easy. I simply poured a line of EPDM, used
squeegee to spread it and rolled it in with a short napped roller. I hadÂ a
foot extension handle on both the squeegee and the roller. I worked from
rear toward the ladder against the side. Then I did the same from theÂ front
(make sure the antenna and dish are up) and eventually coated theÂ entire
roof doing the last few feet from the ladder. I was getting worriedÂ there
the end because I barely had enough to do the job.
They tell youÂ that the roof will puff up with a few blisters but not to
worry because theyÂ will settle down as the EPDM sets up. I can say they
right. It lookedÂ terrible on the radius and seemed to have sags but after
two days of curingÂ it tightened right up.
This stuff loves heat and must be used at temperatures above 70 degreesÂ and
it must be kept dry for a day to be safe.
I never expected it to turn out this good. It has been a week nowÂ (actually
it has now been five months) and it
shines like wet rubber. TheÂ temperature in the Bounder is much lower. I
that since we hope to headÂ for Arizona later this month. If you looked at
the pictures in my folder youÂ can see my roof was almost black before. Now
it is white!
Look at the pictures on the group site in my folder to see what itÂ looks
like. Just click on the group site: _http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bounder_
(http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bounder)Â Â .
Sign in and go to Photos and look in Jerry Newberry’s Album
I must add that the pictures were taken the day after I put the coatingÂ on.
Now the raised areas seen in the after shots are tight and smooth. WeÂ spent
three weeks in the desert in June and the roof did a great job. WeÂ also
found ourselves on some mountain roads during the nine week 8700 mileÂ trip
that were not made for trucks and RVs. Lots of small limbs brushed their
across the roof and a couple not so small. The only damage I had wereÂ four
small punctures about 1/4 inch in diameter where a large limb bouncedÂ over
the top. It took 30 seconds to repair the holes with a tube of dicorÂ caulk.
The first time I washed the new coating was last week. I used 1 cupÂ of
Clorox in about 2 gallops of water and the same SOFT bristle brush I useÂ on
the sides. It still looks new.
2003 36S Workhorse