Some air system info the leveling system is a secondary air circuit which means it is after the safety valves and gets no air until the main air is above 70psi on most units. The rear will air up faster so it will always come up first. The HWH system uses several valves to level the coach they get air from 2 sources one is the leveling air which has a small tank usually and a small compressor the other is the leveling valves that set the ride height when traveling. So in the front you have a valve body which has 6 valves and gets air from 2 sources or 3 if you have 2 height control valves up front. In travel mode the travel valves connect the height valves to the bags. In level mode the travel valves lock out the height control valves and each bag gets air for the leveling system via the raise valve which adds air or the lower valve which lets it out. The rear of the coach will have the same valve body with 6 relay valve unless it has a tag then it could have 8. When you level the travel valves close and lock out the height control valves and the brain box uses the raise and lower valves for each bag to level. In travel mode which by the way only means the travel valves are open the raise and lower valves are locked out and the travel valve opens to let the height control valves set ride height. For the system to work in travel mode you will have power to each travel valve and no power to the other valves. It really is a simple system you have a passage that can get air from either end one end comes from the height control the other from system air each has a relay operated valve. In the middle is a output to the air bag and a relay valve the when opened lets the air out. So if your front wont come up in travel mode you either have no power to the travel valve or a bad valve or a bad height control valve. I hope this helps.
Tue Feb 18, 2014 9:55 am (PST) . Posted by:
In my last three Bounders including the 2003 I have installed a Xantrex 1750 plus modified sine wave inverter. I mounted it in a bay just behind my entry door. That is about 3 feet from the coach batteries under the steps. I recently replaced it with a new Xantrex Pro Watt SW 1000 inverter after the 1750 gave up the fight after 7 years in 3 RVs. This inverter is a pure sine wave inverter and is much better for electronics. It is a lower capacity inverter than my 1750 but the 1750 was overkill. I do not use the inverter to run microwaves, the washer/dryer or heaters. My inverter has a remote switch on the dash. Inverter:
I used very large cables from the batteries to the Inverter. My 1000 inverter can use #4 gage wire but I prefer larger cable. It is crucial that you use the shortest length and large quality cable like these: http://www.theinverterstore.com/power-inverter-cable-1awt-4ft-set.html I only use 2 batteries but they are the larger Trojan T145 batteries. I have a 200 watt solar panel that helps keep them charged when we are dry camping.
I wired the 110 volt side form the inverter to a transfer switch up front between the breaker line and inverter. Normally all those receptacles will run on the power from the breakers but when power is off and I turn the inverter on it cuts in and provides power to my entire entertainment system as well as some extra outlets for my computers and telephone chargers. The outlet on the inverter is GFI and circuit breaker protected. I installed a high amp breaker on the 12 volt side between the batteries and inverter http://tinyurl.com/k6s3586 I like that better than a fuse because I can turn the current off at the breaker and reset it manually.
When shopping inverters it is important to look at how much power the inverter draws from the batteries when under minimum loads. The Xantrex pro watt 1000 only draws 0.6 amps under no load and is 90% efficient when under load. That is critical when considering how much load is taken from the batteries and actually used. You can buy cheap inverters but I don’t think any are as reliable and economical as the Xantrex line. Pay now or pay later.
Yes I do repair the 7719 series (Controls solenoid valve) CCI propane detectors.
I do not repair any other series CCI detector, because it’s not economy feasible.
I charge $100 for repair, which includes return freight.
One year warranty.
Normal turn around time is one week.
All repairs include the actual sniffer + any other items needed.
You have other options that are a little more expensive, but includes a new detector and solenoid. I included a link to a Safe T Alert cross over chart, to replace old CCI detectors with a Safe T Alert detector. Note: If you boon dock (dry camp), the safe T Alert system will consume more power than the old CCI system.
You could also remove the solenoid and purchase a Propane detector that alarms only, but I consider this option a backward move in safety.
If you ever need to open the solenoid valve, it has a 9 volt coil and can be operated on any voltage from 4.5 to 9 volts.
Do NOT apply 12 volt house battery power. (You could combine dry cells in series, of 1.5 volts each, to control the solenoid)
If you elect to repair your CCI detector, send the old unit and a check for $100.00 to:
12454 S Ortega Dr.
Olathe, Ks. 66062
913 782 1223
PS: Don’t forget to include a return address and phone number.
BASEMENT DOOR LATCH REPLACE
(1995 to 20?? Bounders)
1. Open door and remove the four screws at the inside latch
cover. Disconnect two rods and push handle assy out.
2. Remove plastic centering clip screwed onto ceiling inside
cargo compartment (probably broken anyhow).
3. Remove hold open air shock from door by prying open spring
CAREFULLY and removing air shock from door frame.
4. With help, hold door at about 90 degrees and push inboard to
remove door from hinge channel.
5. Remove screw at each CORNER of door moulding on side of
bad latch. Don’t remove two screws holding latch to door edge.
6. Use putty knife with hammer to break glue bond between edge
of extrusion and fiberglas door panel, inside and outside edges.
7. Above should knock extrusion off edge of door panel with latch
and operating rod.
8. Remove two screws holding latch to metal extruded edge and
save any spacers for new latch.
9. Grease new latch (available from most large RV dealers), install
and reverse process. No need to re-glue edge to door panel.
Most larger RV Dealers will carry different types of latches. Remove the old latch and match it up to avoid problems. Good idea to keep a couple spares and spare Centering Tabs. They both require replacement often.
St. Charles, MO
’95 32H P30
99 Ford Chassis Heater Core Replacement
Posted by: “gillsleds” email@example.com gillsleds
Sat May 14, 2011 6:03 am (PDT)
My heater core needed replacing on my 99 Ford Bounder and it was not so bad as I thought. A few notes:
– The kick panel in front of the passenger seat needs to be removed,a few dry wall screws.
– The heater hoses need to be removed from the engine compartment
– The A/C hoses need to be removed. You will lose your freon but chances are if your heater core leaks by now the A/C doesn’t work either, my case.
– critical step, the bottom half of the Denso HVAC unit can acutally be pulled out of the compartment through the access door. This requires removing a few screws on the firewall and some other odds and ends.
– The heater core can be removed by pulling it down into the space where the bottom half of the HVAC used to be. In my case this required two short saw cuts in the firewall to allow the tubes protruding through the firewall to slide straight down. This can be easily repaired later.
– The Denso RV site is http://www.densoheavyduty.com/rv/hvac.php The repair manual and parts manual are there.
– The Denso distributor nationwide for parts is http://www.asesupply.com
– Shock of the day $50.00
The above presumes you have a Denso model. I plan to take pictures once the core comes in and I reverse the process. Send me a note if anyone is interested.
Enjoy the summer!
If you can’t get your preferred parts for your Onan Generator
then these substitutions will suffice:
Onan Fuel Filter 149-2341 => Wix 33049
Onan Air Filter 140-2379 => Wix 42362
Champion Plug RS17YX => Autolite APP 106
I was correct, the solenoids are continuous duty.
The best way to be SURE is to check their resistance.
Per the “guru”, here is the info:
Momentary relays have 3 to 4 ohms; continuous relays have usually 16 to 18 Ohms resistance.
So just read the resistance to ensure you have a continuous duty relay…
Posted by: Gary Slusser
Mon Apr 4, 2011 9:17 am (PDT)
Can anyone tell me which way to move the sensor on the fins of a 2 door Dometic refrigerator to make it colder? Is it up or down, and maybe give me an idea of how much to move it so it gets colder?
’99 36S Bounder
Re: refrigerator temp
Posted by: Bud Weisbrod
Mon Apr 4, 2011 10:19 am (PDT)
It’s easy to remember: Up, North, Colder. Down, South, warmer!
Slide it up about half the distance from where it is now and see what
happens. Then fine tune as necessary.